#Peter wright anvil 1 1 5 cracked
#Peter wright anvil 1 1 5 series

These work hardened, and chipping and spalling was an inevitability. Kohlswa Anvils (Swedish made, a lot were imported into the USA) were cast manganese alloy steel. Once the iron body is repaired, then I would do an underlyament with E 309L stainless steel electrode before starting the MG 710.Ī wrought iron anvil body could probably be built up using E 7018, then E 309L, then the MG 710. The resulting anvil was then water-quenched to harden the face.Ī cast iron body will require a repair using a cast iron repair electrode ('Ni Rod'). Other anvils, such as Peter Wright, had bodies forge welded out of wrought iron using steam hammers, then the steel face was forge welded to the body.

#Peter wright anvil 1 1 5 series

The faceplate was made with a series of lugs to lock the face into the casting. A number of anvils in the USA such as 'Eagle', were made by casting the bodies out of iron while setting the steel face plate in the mold to incorporate it into the casting. If the body proves to be cast iron, and the face has chipped and taken a chunk of the cast iron body, then the repair takes on a whole other method. Find out what you are dealing with before you go to welding on it. We use this 'pit method' for preheating and postheating castings and machine parts to be welded on our railroad or for odd repairs on various heavy equipment.Īnother good idea is to spark test the face and body of the anvil. Once the fire has burned to coals, shovel some coals on the top of the anvil, then loosely shovel some dirt over it. After welding, place the anvil back in the coal bed, pile on some more wood and let things burn down. Pull the anvil when the top is at or near 400 degrees F. Let the coals heat the anvil through,Īnd check the top tempertature by either checking 'temper color' (light straw) on the polished face, or using a temperature indicating crayon or infra red thermometer. Build a 'cabin style' or 'crib' of firewood, and when it has burned to coals, place the anvil in the coals using a chain and some means of handling it. Dig a shallow pit in the ground and build a fire out of hardwood, old pallets, or other hardwood.

If you do not have a rosebud to preheat, and you live out in the country and can get away with it, you can use a wood fire to preheat and postheat. Your 'bean hole method' is about what I do, only I use firebricks. I like to give the finished repair welds a post heating, back up to about 400 degrees F, then slow cool. These are more of 'temper beads', intended to take the cooling stress and any post weld cracking. Build your weld at least 1 extra layer higher than the anvil's finished dimensions, and run the final cover passes out beyond the actual repair by about 1/2'. If this happens, stop welding and strat running your passes from the opposite direction. Magnetic (or 'arc') Blow may occur as you will be running a lot of passes in the same direction. I wire wheel and grind each pass and inspect the toe where the weld burns into the base metal (anvil) These stringer beads build up that edge or bottom of the chipped corner and give you a shelf to build more weld off of. run two stringer beads on the side of the anvil, one next to the other fused together, on the side of the anvil so they build up that bottom edge of roll the anvil on it's side so what would be the bottom edge of the chipped corner is in the flat position. grind the chipped edge so it is completely down to sound steel and blends with radius's.

#Peter wright anvil 1 1 5 cracked

If you have a cracked or chipped corner or edge on the anvil, here is how I made the repair: I backstep about 1/2' on the stitches when starting the tie-in welds, and carry them onto the next stitch by 1/4- 1/2'. I laid the weld in small stitches on the longer areas, rather than running continuous beads. I preheat the area to be welded to about 400 degrees F as you noted, using a roesebud.

Preheating the anvil is claimed by MG Messer as normally not required with MG 710 unless you know the areas being repaired are high carbon steel ( carbon > 0.40 %). Grind areas so therre are no sharp 'vees' or sharp corners, going for 'easy transitions'. I personally just used a good light, magnifying glass and a scriber to probe with.

You can do a dye pentrant test if you are comfortable and familiar with it to verfiy you ground past the base of any cracking. To repair the anvil, you will need to grind out the areas which have been chipped or cracked. As welded hardness will be 55-60 Rockwell C. MG 710 weld deposits are non-machineable and must be ground to shape the repaired areas of the anvil. A 5 lb container of MG 710 stood me 100 bucks over 10 years ago. It can be used for repair/buildup welding on most tool steels. I did some research into the matter, and came up with a specialty electrode made by MG Messer. I rresurfaced and repaired a few anvils using stick welding.